Rainforest Giants

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To reach the reserve, take the exit on National Route 12 and then drive for about 24 kilometers along dirt roads. The scenery starts to shift between afforestation areas and land prepared for new plantations, until the rainforest gradually starts taking over the landscape. Two magnificent toucans suddenly appear, welcoming the small group of visitors to the reserve and breaking the apparent calm of the rainforest. The only way of getting to the place is by 4×4 trucks, and it is not open to tourists –only biologists, scientists and nature photographers are allowed to enter, but they must obtain a special permit first.

The San Jorge natural reserve, owned by the forestry company Arauco, is the largest private reserve in Misiones. It covers 16,500 hectares of well-preserved rainforest, and it is home to unique animals such as the mythical yaguareté, guardian and top predator of the rainforest, as well as pumas, capybaras and tapirs.

The park rangers Sergio Palavecino and Darío Moraes De Lima excitedly explain that the rainforest remains in the same condition as in the times of Alvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca. According to a dendrochronology analysis carried out in the reserve, the trees —silent giants— are between 500 and 700 years old, which further confirms that the place remains unspoiled.

Every few steps, a Palo Rosa tree (Aspidosperma polyneuron) can be found in the reserve. These imposing natural monuments have a unique feature, as they are the tallest specimens of the Upper Parana Rainforest. Particularly in this protected area, they stand out for their extraordinary height, reaching approximately 35 to 40 meters. They are not only taller than those of the same species in the Iguazú National Park but also taller than specimens found in other countries.

Another distinctive feature is that the Palmito tree (Euterpe edulis) always grows at the base of the Palo Rosa. The Palo Rosa is also known as ‘the yaguareté of the trees’ thanks to its significant contribution to biodiversity and its role as a key indicator of the rainforest good health. The yaguareté is also present by leaving its claw marks on tree trunks. And since there is plenty of food, its roar can always be heard throughout the reserve. These are its domains.

The passing of time is, however, inexorable as evidenced by the fallen giants of tremendous proportions that are gradually transformed into new elements of the environment. The cycle of life.

Other tree species are also abundant in the area, such as the Cedro (Cedrela fissilis), Guayubira (Patagonula Americana), Cancharana (Cabralea canjerana), and Loro Negro (Cordia trichotoma). These trees are a living testimony of the exuberant nature still standing in Misiones, which preserves 7% of the original Atlantic Forest.

In this context, the reserve has managed to keep those century-old trees standing despite changes in the administration. The company Alto Paraná –now called Arauco– bought the land from the Pérez Companc family and kept intact its conservation efforts. This is why the reserve is a key location for the forest corridor.

‘In the light of the current global reality, at Arauco we are tripling our efforts to mitigate the effects of climate change, reverse biodiversity loss, and tackle pollution on our planet. In Argentina, Arauco preserves almost half of its heritage as native forest. We are aware of the importance of protecting biodiversity to ensure the well-being of our planet and its inhabitants. As a result, we get healthy ecosystems that provide basic resources for sustaining life, enhance the hydrological cycle and water quality, and significantly improve CO2 capture and storage,’ expressed the Chilean company to Economis.

‘In line with the above, our sustainable forest management allows us to keep running operations that guarantee biodiversity preservation, productivity, restoration capacity and forest vitality. Therefore, we play a crucial role in the fight against climate change,’ the company emphasised.

San Jorge was declared a Private Forest Reserve in 1999. It covers an area of 16,500 hectares of well-preserved Upper Parana Forest, rich in biodiversity. The reserve has more than 110,000 hectares of native forest and areas of significant environmental conservation value, a critical native forest block that connects two vast reserves in the northern region of Misiones: the Iguazú National Park and the Urugua-í Provincial Park, whose central stream flows nearby.

This protected area also shelters a wide range of flora and fauna, including a high diversity of orchids, trees and plant species with pharmacological properties. It is also home to endemic species, ferns, lichens and fungi. Regarding animals, a considerable number of birds are present, many of which are endemic and endangered. Mammals, such as the yaguareté and the tapir (both declared natural monuments), can also be found in the reserve.

Additionally, the reserve is home to a wide variety of landscapes and ecosystems, such as wetlands and dense forest areas.

Environmental protection is key. Besides Palavecino and Moraes De Lima, six other park rangers are exclusively dedicated to the reserve. In total, 50 people are involved in controlling and monitoring for conservation and fire protection, and all of them have a strong sense of belonging and love for the rainforest. Palavecino, born in Wanda, is actually a systems analyst who became a park ranger and developed a deep connection with the rainforest. Moraes De Lima, a native of San Antonio, is intimately familiar with every meter of the forest he oversees.

The park rangers’ work is fundamental for preservation. Arauco owns 118,942 hectares of native forest in Misiones, with the San Jorge reserve being the largest in the province. However, there are other reserves of high conservation value: Los Palmitos (10,200 hectares), Valle del Arroyo Alegría (9,200 hectares) and Piray, along with San Pedro (19,000 hectares).